Stefano’s Restaurant

Go northwest from Melbourne and follow the Murray River along and you will come to the isolated oasis that is Mildura.  Basically bordering on the three states of Victoria, NSW and SA, Mildura is a known food bowl with an abundance of fresh local produce on offer.

Aside from the citrus, the wine, the salt flakes and the Mallee lamb that the region of Mildura and Sunraysia has become known for, Mildura has been notably promoted and put on the dining map by cook and restaurateur Stefano de Pieri for the past 20 odd years.

Transforming the original cellars of the historic Grand Hotel into a ‘cantina’ style restaurant in 1991, Stefano and his wife Donata Carrazza, embarked on offering diners a set menu of rustic, traditional Italian style dishes that Stefano would prepare that day. 

Over the years Stefano’s Restaurant has evolved to become one of the most recognized and respected restaurants in regional Victoria. Many have flown in from all around the countryside to experience this dining mecca that had stayed true to its traditional Italian beginnings…until now.

In late 2010, Stefano de Pieri handed over the reigns of his flagship restaurant to chef Jim McDougall.  For the first time Stefano has taken a true step away from this business enabling Jim to not only be Head Chef but co-owner.

After completing his cooking apprenticeship in Mildura, Jim McDougall broadened his horizons and worked for Shannon Bennett at Vue de Monde working his way up to Sous Chef before opening and heading up Café Vue.

Upon his return to Mildura and wanting to mark his stamp on the competitive culinary world, Jim has turned the style of Stefano’s Restaurant on its head.  He has infused it with a contemporary edge creating an absolute dining extravaganza.

Sourcing the majority of the produce locally, Jim and his kitchen team, take the art of cooking to a new dimension.  Offering either a six or eight set degustation menu, at $110 or $150 respectively, prepare to be blown away.

It’s not often that I am left speechless by my food encounters.  In fact I don’t think it had ever happened to me prior to my Stefano’s Restaurant/Jim McDougall experience.  But it did.  Still I fear that my words will not do this stunning cuisine justice.

With a menu that can be changed by the Chef on a whim, here is the listing of the dishes that I devoured on my visit:

Antipasti

House cured capocollo, melon & walnut

Loxton pork ‘caramelized’, Mildura sultana

Mackerel tartare, yuzu curd, yolk caviar

1^st – Wild Darling Yabby

Lightly pickled Shark Bay blue swimmer crab, sweet corn and toasted seaweed salt.

2^nd – Woorlong Egg Perfectly Poached

Yellow fin tuna, potato and wild anchovy.

3^rd – Murray Cod raised at Thurla Farm

Fennel, smoked butter clams and air dried pork cheek.

4^th – Risotto of Merbein Mushrooms

King brown and porcini black truffle.

5^th – River Valley Beef

Jerusalem artichoke puree, smoked wagyu, radish and bone marrow.

6^th – Cheese

Pyengana cheddar, gorgonzola picante, Buche d’ Affinois and apricot puree.

7^th - Beetroot Sorbet

Goat’s cheese and apple.

8^th – Boysenberry & Chocolate

Hazelnut, buttermilk and saltbush.

Dolce & Biscotti

Liquid lemon and white chocolate, strawberry lamington, saffron panna cotta with yoghurt.

Matched thoughtfully and impeccably with local and international wines I was truly swept off my feet.  The supreme and specialist wait staff delivered each dish on classy, apt plate ware ranging from wooden stumps to potted plates made by Shelley Panton.

If you are after the Stefano’s of old you won’t find it here any more.  Jim McDougall and his brigade are all about clean, modern, dynamic food that is delicately enhanced rather than over complicated.

It is worth the trip.  It is worth every cent.  It is pure brilliance.

Food – 10/10

Service – 10/10

Ambiance – 8/10

Stefano’s Restaurant

Cellars of the Grand Hotel, Langtree Avenue Mildura.

Phone – 5022 0881

www.stefano.com.au

I Love You Oscar W

Is it possible to fall totally in love with a restaurant?  If it is – I have.  It is true love!

A couple of years ago two friends of mine, both chefs, introduced me to Oscar W and it was love at first sight.

Overlooking the Murray River in Echuca, Victoria, Oscar W sits high on the riverbank next to Echuca’s famous Red Gum Wharf and Port of Echuca’s paddle steamer fleet. The views of the mighty Murray are simply beautiful – calming, peaceful, tranquil.

Inside the restaurant, the red gum grill and deck bar areas are also beautiful.  The creators of Oscar W have used recycled timbers, galvanised iron and stainless steel.  There is a huge open fireplace that mesmerises you as you sit on the antique lounges which create such a comforting experience.  It’s so lovely that you don’t want to leave.

The Age Good Food Guide 2012 awarded Oscar W with a prestigious Chefs Hat.  This was an honor well and truly deserved.

When I recently returned to my love, Oscar W, I walked in and noticed there was a blackboard out the front that said “Deluxe food, lush wine, great coffee, awesome views”.  This is 100% correct. Eight words is all it takes to best describe this place.

Oscar W has an all-day menu to enjoy at the bar, a lunch menu and a dinner menu.   On this occasion two colleagues and I enjoyed a sample of the lunch menu.  We sat by the window, sun beaming through the glass as we overlooked the water and the bush land surrounding it.

As a starter we ordered the ‘grilled flatbread and dips – beetroot and apple, pumpkin and feta, rocket and pine nut’ ($16.50).  The flatbread is house made and grilled on the red gum grill – it is purely divine.  It is thicker than usual for a flatbread and lightly salted.  The dips were also delicious, the freshness and flavors were very well balanced.  I particularly enjoyed the beetroot and apple and the pumpkin and feta.

The next course was quite difficult to decide.  So many options including vegetarian and gluten free dishes. From the small plates section I went with the ‘Fish Cakes – romesco sauce, truffled coddled egg, avocado salsa ($19.80) with a side dish of ‘Chickpeas fried, harissa, radicchio, and orange’ ($8).  The fish cakes were perfectly cooked – they almost melted in my mouth.  The flavor was delicate not too fishy or overpowering and the sweetness of the avocado salsa made a perfect pairing.

The fried chickpeas had a bitter sweet sensation of flavor which via the orange and radicchio was very complimentary to the chickpeas and harissa.  This was an excellent side dish something different to the norm.  Both dishes were well supported by a crisp floral glass of sauvignon blanc.  The perfect lunch.

My colleagues ordered and thoroughly enjoyed the ‘Prime Australian Beef – “minute steak” (150 gram cooked medium) with roasted tomato, confit garlic, potato gratin, red wine jus ($27) and ‘Crispy Pork Belly, baked scallops, corn puree, agro dolce, apple slaw ($22.50).  I can’t expand any further on these dishes as they were not prepared to share and let me sample!

Our waiter was one of the three managers of Oscar W.  He was excellent.  He managed the floor solo serving around ten tables and giving each one the perfect amount of time, attention and conversation.  Very impressive Liam.

It is well worth the trip to visit Oscar W.  It is positively the jewel in the crown for Echuca.  The next time I visit to continue my love affair it will be for dinner – I can hardly wait.

Food – 9/10

Service – 9/10
Ambiance – 10/10

www.oscarws.com.au