Stefano’s Restaurant

Go northwest from Melbourne and follow the Murray River along and you will come to the isolated oasis that is Mildura.  Basically bordering on the three states of Victoria, NSW and SA, Mildura is a known food bowl with an abundance of fresh local produce on offer.

Aside from the citrus, the wine, the salt flakes and the Mallee lamb that the region of Mildura and Sunraysia has become known for, Mildura has been notably promoted and put on the dining map by cook and restaurateur Stefano de Pieri for the past 20 odd years.

Transforming the original cellars of the historic Grand Hotel into a ‘cantina’ style restaurant in 1991, Stefano and his wife Donata Carrazza, embarked on offering diners a set menu of rustic, traditional Italian style dishes that Stefano would prepare that day. 

Over the years Stefano’s Restaurant has evolved to become one of the most recognized and respected restaurants in regional Victoria. Many have flown in from all around the countryside to experience this dining mecca that had stayed true to its traditional Italian beginnings…until now.

In late 2010, Stefano de Pieri handed over the reigns of his flagship restaurant to chef Jim McDougall.  For the first time Stefano has taken a true step away from this business enabling Jim to not only be Head Chef but co-owner.

After completing his cooking apprenticeship in Mildura, Jim McDougall broadened his horizons and worked for Shannon Bennett at Vue de Monde working his way up to Sous Chef before opening and heading up Café Vue.

Upon his return to Mildura and wanting to mark his stamp on the competitive culinary world, Jim has turned the style of Stefano’s Restaurant on its head.  He has infused it with a contemporary edge creating an absolute dining extravaganza.

Sourcing the majority of the produce locally, Jim and his kitchen team, take the art of cooking to a new dimension.  Offering either a six or eight set degustation menu, at $110 or $150 respectively, prepare to be blown away.

It’s not often that I am left speechless by my food encounters.  In fact I don’t think it had ever happened to me prior to my Stefano’s Restaurant/Jim McDougall experience.  But it did.  Still I fear that my words will not do this stunning cuisine justice.

With a menu that can be changed by the Chef on a whim, here is the listing of the dishes that I devoured on my visit:

Antipasti

House cured capocollo, melon & walnut

Loxton pork ‘caramelized’, Mildura sultana

Mackerel tartare, yuzu curd, yolk caviar

1^st – Wild Darling Yabby

Lightly pickled Shark Bay blue swimmer crab, sweet corn and toasted seaweed salt.

2^nd – Woorlong Egg Perfectly Poached

Yellow fin tuna, potato and wild anchovy.

3^rd – Murray Cod raised at Thurla Farm

Fennel, smoked butter clams and air dried pork cheek.

4^th – Risotto of Merbein Mushrooms

King brown and porcini black truffle.

5^th – River Valley Beef

Jerusalem artichoke puree, smoked wagyu, radish and bone marrow.

6^th – Cheese

Pyengana cheddar, gorgonzola picante, Buche d’ Affinois and apricot puree.

7^th - Beetroot Sorbet

Goat’s cheese and apple.

8^th – Boysenberry & Chocolate

Hazelnut, buttermilk and saltbush.

Dolce & Biscotti

Liquid lemon and white chocolate, strawberry lamington, saffron panna cotta with yoghurt.

Matched thoughtfully and impeccably with local and international wines I was truly swept off my feet.  The supreme and specialist wait staff delivered each dish on classy, apt plate ware ranging from wooden stumps to potted plates made by Shelley Panton.

If you are after the Stefano’s of old you won’t find it here any more.  Jim McDougall and his brigade are all about clean, modern, dynamic food that is delicately enhanced rather than over complicated.

It is worth the trip.  It is worth every cent.  It is pure brilliance.

Food – 10/10

Service – 10/10

Ambiance – 8/10

Stefano’s Restaurant

Cellars of the Grand Hotel, Langtree Avenue Mildura.

Phone – 5022 0881

www.stefano.com.au