Go northwest from Melbourne and follow the
Murray River along and you will come to the isolated oasis that is Mildura. Basically bordering on the three states of
Victoria, NSW and SA, Mildura is a known food bowl with an abundance of fresh
local produce on offer.
Aside from the citrus, the wine, the salt
flakes and the Mallee lamb that the region of Mildura and Sunraysia has become
known for, Mildura has been notably promoted and put on the dining map by cook
and restaurateur Stefano de Pieri for the past 20 odd years.
Transforming the original cellars of the
historic Grand Hotel into a ‘cantina’ style restaurant in 1991, Stefano and his
wife Donata Carrazza, embarked on offering diners a set menu of rustic,
traditional Italian style dishes that Stefano would prepare that day.
Over the years Stefano’s Restaurant has
evolved to become one of the most recognized and respected restaurants in
regional Victoria. Many have flown in from all around the countryside to
experience this dining mecca that had stayed true to its traditional Italian
beginnings…until now.
In late 2010, Stefano de Pieri handed over
the reigns of his flagship restaurant to chef Jim McDougall. For the first time Stefano has taken a true
step away from this business enabling Jim to not only be Head Chef but
co-owner.
After completing his cooking apprenticeship
in Mildura, Jim McDougall broadened his horizons and worked for Shannon Bennett
at Vue de Monde working his way up to Sous Chef before opening and heading up
Café Vue.
Upon his return to Mildura and wanting to
mark his stamp on the competitive culinary world, Jim has turned the style of
Stefano’s Restaurant on its head. He has
infused it with a contemporary edge creating an absolute dining extravaganza.
Sourcing the majority of the produce
locally, Jim and his kitchen team, take the art of cooking to a new
dimension. Offering either a six or
eight set degustation menu, at $110 or $150 respectively, prepare to be blown
away.
It’s not often that I am left speechless by
my food encounters. In fact I don’t
think it had ever happened to me prior to my Stefano’s Restaurant/Jim McDougall
experience. But it did. Still I fear that my words will not do this stunning
cuisine justice.
With a menu that can be changed by the Chef
on a whim, here is the listing of the dishes that I devoured on my visit:
Antipasti
House cured
capocollo, melon & walnut
Loxton pork ‘caramelized’, Mildura sultana
Mackerel tartare, yuzu curd, yolk caviar
1st
– Wild Darling Yabby
Lightly pickled Shark Bay blue swimmer
crab, sweet corn and toasted seaweed salt.
2nd
– Woorlong Egg Perfectly Poached
Yellow fin tuna, potato and wild anchovy.
3rd
– Murray Cod raised at Thurla Farm
Fennel, smoked butter clams and air dried
pork cheek.
4th
– Risotto of Merbein Mushrooms
King brown and porcini black truffle.
5th
– River Valley Beef
Jerusalem artichoke puree, smoked wagyu,
radish and bone marrow.
6th
– Cheese
Pyengana cheddar, gorgonzola picante, Buche
d’ Affinois and apricot puree.
7th
- Beetroot Sorbet
Goat’s cheese and apple.
8th
– Boysenberry & Chocolate
Hazelnut, buttermilk and saltbush.
Dolce & Biscotti
Liquid lemon and white chocolate,
strawberry lamington, saffron panna cotta with yoghurt.
Matched thoughtfully and impeccably with
local and international wines I was truly swept off my feet. The supreme and specialist wait staff
delivered each dish on classy, apt plate ware ranging from wooden stumps to
potted plates made by Shelley Panton.
If you are after the Stefano’s of old you
won’t find it here any more. Jim
McDougall and his brigade are all about clean, modern, dynamic food that is delicately
enhanced rather than over complicated.
It is worth the
trip. It is worth every cent. It is pure brilliance.
Food – 10/10
Service – 10/10
Ambiance – 8/10
Stefano’s
Restaurant
Cellars of the Grand Hotel, Langtree Avenue
Mildura.
Phone – 5022 0881
www.stefano.com.au